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Pop culture dispatches from the Great Lakes

Culinary Arts

Recorded Conversations: Drink of Choice

August 24, 2012 by -J. 1 Comment

Welcome to “Recorded Conversations,” an occasional feature where all the Addison Recorder editors contribute their thoughts about a question, idea, or prompt. Everyone will chime in, and then we see where the conversation wanders. For today’s conversation, J. Michael Bestul looks forward to a few drinks over the Labor Day weekend, and wonders aloud what might be drinking.

Prompt: You’re at a bar, restaurant, or pub that you’ve never been to before. The place has a pretty good drinks list, and on it, you notice ____________. And because this is one thing you always have to try when you’re at a new place, you order it.

Question: What is ____________, and why is it the libation you order?

—

This question sprang up last month, when I went to a relatively new bar with a good whisky list. On this list was a particular single malt, Caol Ila 18-year. And I ordered it, as I always do, with the full expectation that I would not get it. Someone would (and did) come along to tell me that, sorry, but they were planning to get the 18-year, but were unable to do so.

I expect this answer because you can’t find a bottle of the 18-year for sale in the U.S., but its distributor seems to give the impression to restaurants that they can. I’ve yet to order a Caol Ila 18-year and actually receive it. But I keep asking for it, since it was the first single malt I’d ever tasted.

If only…

I thought it would be fun to put the question to my fellow Addison Recorder colleagues, as it is broad enough to include responses ranging from “anything with grapefruit” to “locally-brewed porter” to a specific single malt Scotch.

Forgetting the Caol Ila, there is one drink I will always try if it’s on a bar’s menu: the Blood & Sand cocktail, or any variation on it.

[Read more…]

Posted in: Cocktails & Spirits, Recorded Conversations Tagged: Blood & Sand, Caol Ila, cocktails, Johnnie Walker, Scotch, whisky

Tincture, Bitters, Citrate, Shrub

June 15, 2012 by -J. Leave a Comment

Anyone who spends even a few minutes on Twitter knows that’s it’s rather cluttered. Its main export is white noise, and you can lose a lot of time sifting through the static. But amidst the abbreviations and attempts to cram as much meaning into 140 characters as possible, I occasionally come across a tweet that hits me with a +3 Hammer of Concise Truthiness. For example:

Very seriously.

I realize it’s not earth-shattering – a man who has a business making fine bitters in the UK, tweeting about the product he makes. But to approach it in such a way is too dismissive. There is a cocktail renaissance of late, and bitters are an integral part of that event; were this not the case, he wouldn’t have much of a business making bitters, would he?

[Read more…]

Posted in: Cocktails & Spirits Tagged: bitters, cocktails

the Longship cocktail

June 15, 2012 by -J. Leave a Comment

Despite the idiom that is meant to admonish, I find there is value in ‘reinventing the wheel’ when it comes to cocktails. A classic recipe can provide a great framework to inspire new ideas and experimentations.

Take the Longship, for example. The basic concept is that of a Sidecar, but with aquavit. It also bears close resemblance to the Sailor Mercury, another aquavit-based cocktail with similarities to a Sidecar. Rather than the floral flavors of the Parfait Amour, however, this drink utilizes the intense and unique aromatics of kaffir limes. (If you can find the kaffir limes, making the tincture is quite simple; see below.)

This recipe is tailored to my palate, and I tend to favor cocktails that are spirit-forward (i.e., boozy) and not too sweet. Since we’re using a classic recipe as framework, it’s pretty easy to adjust for your own tastes. Want a cocktail that focuses less on the base spirit, and is a bit sweeter? Take the the aquavit down to 1.75 or 1.5 oz, and add a spoonful or three of simple syrup — tweaking proportions like this can help you tailor cocktail recipes to the liking of you and your friends.

the Longship

2 oz – aquavit
.5 oz – triple sec
.25 oz – fresh lime juice
kaffir lime tincture

Combine first three ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake, then strain into a coupe glass. Top with a few drops of kaffir lime tincture, and garnish with an orange boat & brandied cherry.

Kaffir lime tincture – take the leaves and/or zest of 2 kaffir limes, and place into a small jar. Cover with a high-proof, neutral spirit — Everclear, Spiritus, or 100-proof vodka — and seal the jar, storing out of the light for 1-2 weeks. Shake daily, and start checking the tincture after the first week. Once ready, strain out the solids — voila, you have a tincture.

Posted in: Cocktail Recipes, Cocktails & Spirits Tagged: aquavit, cocktails, recipes

Aquavit Old Fashioned

June 15, 2012 by -J. 1 Comment

For Tales of the Cocktail 2012, the bartender competition was to craft the perfect Old Fashioned using the basic recipe of spirt + sweetener + water + fruit. I’m not exactly a bartender, but I can still have fun coming up with my own Old Fashioned using homemade bitters and locally-produced aquavit.

(I thought I was rather clever using this combination, until I found another blog that came up with a very, very similar recipe a year ago. Ah, well.)

The drink is built around the Aquavit – Private Reserve from North Shore Distillery. The preferred bitters would be any that have a pronounced chocolate and/or coffee aroma. If you’re out of grapefruit, you could use an orange peel in a pinch — but grapefruit works so unbelievably well with aquavit, you’ll be missing out if you substitute.

Aquavit Old Fashioned

2 oz. aquavit
.25 oz simple syrup (1:1)
swath of grapefruit peel
couple dashes of chocolate / mocha bitters

In a rocks glass, muddle the peel with the syrup & bitters. Add ice, add aquavit, stir, and serve.

Posted in: Cocktail Recipes, Cocktails & Spirits Tagged: aquavit, bitters, cocktails, recipes

(How to) Make Mine Skinny

June 2, 2012 by -J. 2 Comments

Skinnygirl, Skinnygirl, Skinnygirl, oh how do I loathe thee.

It’s not because I dislike calorie counting or “healthy alternative” fads. It’s not even the ridiculous marketing, nor the fact that it’s one more bottle of booze with a celebrity behind it.

It’s the cynicism, i think. It may not even be intentional, but the success of Skinnygirl Bare Naked Vodka is based on a cynical premise: that its target demographic won’t know enough about booze to know they’ve been had.

(Full disclosure: I work in the tasting room of a small artisan distillery. It’s not the reason I dislike Skinnygirl, but I do have a horse in these races. It’s a small horse, and it’s running a completely different race, but still a horse. And if you’re wondering why I’m focusing on the vodkas but not Skinnygirl’s pre-mixed cocktails, Jason Wilson has already been carrying that torch.)

With a name like “Bare Naked Vodka,” one might think of a clear spirit that has been stripped to its essential nature. Less flim-flam, less calories, just a vodka letting it all hang out with nothing to hide. Surely, they wouldn’t use “Bare Naked” to describe a product that conceals a heinous truth: that you’re paying more for less.

They would, and that’s exactly what you’re doing.

Look, maybe the intentions behind the vodka are good, laudable ones. But even if the intentions are as pure as triple-distilled vodka, it’s still about making a profit on ignorance. For the same $20 you’d spend on Bare Naked Vodka, I can show you how to end up with more (and better) vodka, in terms of variety, quality, and quantity.

Start by buying your favorite bottle of vodka in the $20 range. Not sure what your favorite is? No worries, this is why bars, pubs, and restaurants exist. This is why folks do tastings. Go out, eat, drink, be merry, and come back with one you like.

Got that new bottle of vodka? Good. Here’s how to skinny-fy it.

  • 1. Open your bottle of vodka
  • 2. Pour out about 1/4 of the liquid within
  • 2b. On second thought, don’t pour it out; there are young 20-somethings out there who go without booze, so let’s not waste it. Instead, pour it into a mason jar we’ll come back for it later
  • 3. Measure out an amount of water, equal to the amount of vodka you poured into the mason jar
  • 4. Pour the water into the bottle
  • 5. Close the bottle

Congratulations, you have now made your vodka skinny. Seriously, that’s it.

See, when you buy vodka, you’re buying two things: distillate and water. There are other factors that have subtle influences on the spirit: what the distillate was made from, the number of distillations, the “width” of the “cuts’ ” the type of water used, the filtration system…

But if you’re buying a bottle of Skinnygirl vodka, you’re not buying it for the subtleties. So let’s go back to what you are buying: distillate and water. These two items are all that we have to work with here. Water has no caloric content, meaning all calories are coming from the distillate – and that doesn’t offer much wiggle room.

(By definition, vodka must be distilled up to 95% alcohol by volume [ABV] or 190 proof. This means that distillate is as close to pure ethyl alcohol as you can get – like I said, not much wiggle room.)

The only way to make a low-cal vodka, then, is to play with the proportions (hooray mathematics!) of distillate to water. Skinnygirl vodka is 60 proof (30% ABV), whereas most spirits are bottled at 80 proof (40% ABV) or higher.

But what about the flavors? What about Skinnygirl tangerine or cucumber vodka? Yes, where would we be without flavored Vodka? Y’know, I’ going to leave that question for someone else. In the meantime, let’s go back to the mason jar of vodka that you shrewdly did not pour down the drain.

Maybe you’re like me, and you have a co-worker who always has tangerines as a snack at work, and always offers you one. Here’s what I want you to do: accept a couple of these tangerines from your generous and healthy co-worker. When you get home, peel the zest off them (or use a zester on them – just make sure to leave the pith behind). Drop the zest into the mason jar of vodka, cover it up, and put it away.

Every couple days, take a tiny sip from the jar. Once it tastes ready, strain out the zest – congratulations, you’ve just flavored your vodka.

But wait! It’s not skinny yet! Measure out some water, 1/3 of whatever the total volume of the vodka in the jar-o is. Maybe you add a tiny bit of juice from the pithy tangerines. Maybe you like sweet stuff, and you mix a packet of Splenda into the water – hey, they’re your taste buds. Just don’t add too much. We are going skinny here.

Now mix that water into the mason jar, and cover. Done.

See that? For the same $20 you would’ve spent on over-marketed booze, you not only have a full bottle of skinny vodka, you have a bonus jar of flavored vodka that is made to your specifications.

Hell, you’ve probably snacked on those tangerines by now, so you’ve also eaten that much healthier during this whole process. Once you make your cucumber vodka, you’re well on your way to your daily intake of fruits and veggies.

For me, this is the appeal of today’s spirits and cocktails. Yeah there’s a lot of bullshit out there, but even a small bit of knowledge will have you drinking better.

Posted in: Cocktails & Spirits Tagged: skinny, spirits, vodka
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